” Dio ha creato i paesi ricchi d’acqua perchè gli uomini ci vivano, i deserti perchè vi trovino la loro anima, in una ricerca infinita senza mai fermarsi”.
E’ questo uno dei detti dei Kel le tribù dei tuareg, gli uomini blu del deserto.





Il deserto un luogo da vivere e non solo da visitare, una palestra per il corpo e per la mente …Questo non sarà il solito viaggio ma sarà pura emozione !

Con un volo di linea della compagnia di bandiera raggiungiamo Algeri per poi trasferirci con un altro volo interno a Djanet denominata “la perla del Tassili” ad accompagnarci in questa avventura ci sarà Paola un’esperta del deserto e delle popolazioni tuareg e Djaba con la sua squadra di tuareg doc .
Questa spedizione in jeep è organizzata da Kel 12, un tour operator italiano specializzato in viaggi molto particolari con la guida di esperti delle destinazioni.

Un viaggio avventuroso, un’esperienza davvero unica, a stretto contatto con la natura, dove ogni notte monteremo un campo base, allestiremo una piccola cucina da campo, mangeremo sotto le stelle e dormiremo in tenda nei sacchi a pelo.
Così ha inizio la nostra avventura, l’indomani mattina siamo in giro per Djanet la visita comincia dalla parte più alta. Questa città oasi rappresenta il luogo di ritrovo più importante per i tuareg algerini, piena di suggestioni ci regala l’emozione di essere arrivati in uno dei capolinea del Sahara, era infatti un’ importante città carovaniera. Djanet è un oasi di montagna la cui parte più antica è costituita da case di fango e pietra, dipinte a calce . arrivati in centro visitiamo il museo ricco di reperti e strumenti dei tuareg. Dopo questo breve giro nella cittadina è arrivato il momento di metterci in viaggio, ci lasciamo alle spalle le case basse che lentamente lasciano il posto a spazi desertici sconfinati. Ed è proprio questa l’essenza del viaggio che ci aspetta, un mondo fatto di guglie e torrioni scolpiti dal vento e arsi dal sole.
Lasciata la strada asfaltata diventiamo dei piccoli puntini in uno spazio immenso di sabbia che assume i tanti colori ….. questo è il tipo di paesaggio che si ammira nei film, ma esserci dentro è davvero un’altra cosa. Il silenzio che ci circonda ci fa ancor di più apprezzare il paesaggio.

Sapete cosa significa in arabo la parola Sahara ? Significa “Grande vuoto” ed è infatti questa la sensazione con le sue atmosfere e i suoi grandi silenzi .
Con le jeep ci addentriamo nel Sahara e raggiungiamo la zona fluviale del Berjen il percorso è pieno di acacie spinose, le piante tipiche del deserto. Ma è giunta l’ora di pranzo e allora ci fermiamo per una pausa. I pranzi nel deserto sono molto leggeri spesso a base di squisite insalate preparate dal nostro chef questo ovviamente per non appesantirci anche perchè il viaggio per raggiungere il campo base sarà ancora lungo e tante sono le cose da vedere. Dopo il pranzo c’è il rito del tè che qui nel deserto è molto lungo ma bellissimo da vivere si perché qui il tempo c’è per godersi ogni momento …..
la nostra carovana è di nuovo in viaggio attraversiamo spianate sassose circondate da alte guglie e montagne imponenti .

Siamo stupiti dalla tanta acqua che abbiamo trovato nel deserto. Come tutte le spedizioni avventurose che si rispettino, l’imprevisto è sempre dietro l’angolo e attraversando una wadi la nostra jeep rimane incastrata… ed allora tutta la squadra giù… a spingerla fuori dal fango, anche questo è il deserto! Si continua nella ricerca della legna per la notte prima di raggiungere il campo base.

Arrivati al campo base per la prima notte si montano le tende e si comincia a preparare per la cena tutti intorno al fuoco per gustare il cibo del deserto e ascoltare la musica delle nostre guide, la musica dei tuareg sarà la colonna sonora delle nostre serate al chiaro di luna nel bel mezzo del nulla.

Il sole si alza e la linea dell’orizzonte si fa sfuocata avvolta come per magia in una calda nebbia, il calore del deserto trasforma la luce che assume forme strane, le dune luccicano di particolari colori, da qui nascono i ” Miraggi”… E’ ora di rimetterci in marcia, anche noi come il deserto siamo in continuo movimento, il vento sposta le dune invalicabili che vanno dal rosa, al giallo all’ ocra.

Si lascia il Berjen un’attraversata avventurosa tra le dune condurrà alla zona di Tikneween, due grandi rilievi identici che spuntano dalla sabbia, un luogo unico ed irripetibile per il paesaggio che si può ammirare e per l’immensa quiete che lo caratterizza.
Il deserto è una sfida per l’uomo per le piante per gli insetti e per gli animali, qui tutti si sono adattati all’ ambiente. Da lontano scorgiamo una capanna, ci fermiamo… in questo luogo abitano dei beduini, questa popolazione nomade che ha deciso di vivere proprio qui nel deserto con quel poco che questo ambiente sa offrire loro. Le donne e i bambini si occupano della tenda mentre gli uomini portano al pascolo i dromedari o le poche capre dalle quali ricavano il formaggio. Per milioni di anni queste terre sono state scavate dall’acqua che ci ha regalato canyon e valli di incomparabile bellezza.


quando si cammina nel deserto la prima sensazione e quella di essere da soli ma in realtà non è così, ad ogni passo ritrovi te stesso.
Tra paesaggi lunari e canyon inesplorati siamo arrivati ai dipinti rupestri che risalgono all’età della pietra. 80.000 km quadrati dichiarati patrimonio dell’umanità dall’Unesco.
Il Tassili lo possiamo definire un museo a cielo aperto infatti quasi 15.000 sono le pitture rupestri ritrovate le più antiche risalenti al neolitico circa 6000 anni A.C. Dai disegni si può risalire ai vari momenti storici e alla fauna che viveva in questi luoghi, dagli elefanti alle giraffe.


Fu Henri Lhote, studioso ed esploratore francese, a far conoscere al mondo l’esistenza delle pitture rupestri del Tassili-n-Ajjier.

la sua prima missione nel 1935 effettuata per quindici mesi poi due successive nel 1956 e nel 1957, grazie anche alla sua guida esperta del deserto ci raccontò di questa fantastica spedizione, portando con sè anche una squadra di pittori e fotografi.
Cinque sono i diversi periodi storici che vengono identificati attraverso le immagini del Tassili:

il Periodo Naturalistico o Bubalino caratterizzato da grandi figure incise di animali di grossa taglia
il Periodo delle Teste Rotonde che rappresentano il fenomeno artistico più suggestivo dell’intera area,

il Periodo Pastorale l’arte dei pastori è naturalistica, di un realismo meticoloso. Migliaia di figure di bovini,

il Periodo del Cavallo, che copre la fine neolitica e protostorica, e che corrisponde alla scomparsa di numerose specie animali come conseguenza della progressiva desertificazione dell’area.
il Periodo del Cammello, durante i primi secoli dell’era cristiana, in coincidenza con l’inizio del clima desertico.

durante la nostra spedizione in jeep, nel bel mezzo del deserto, per non farci mancare proprio nulla, all’improvviso ci è capitato di incontrare una carovana di moto che stava facendo una gara tra le dune, un’immagine anche questa molto suggestiva che ci riporta alla mente la famosa Parigi Dakar che passava proprio da qui.

Dopo questo viaggio, potremo dire anche noi di aver vissuto la vera spedizione in jeep nel deserto, un’esperienza davvero unica, un’esperienza per veri viaggiatori,


Giorni intensi quelli trascorsi nel Tassili, alla scoperta di un mondo lontano e diverso da quello al quale siamo abituati, un mondo dove ascoltare il suono del silenzio, un mondo che probabilmente milioni di anni fa doveva essere tutto così come lo abbiamo vissuto in quest’avventura davvero unica…
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